🔗 Share this article

Whenever compiling a roll of London’s top dining spots, one might anticipate familiar high-end venues. Yet, tucked prominently among these food giants is a simple salonu located in a distant corner of northern London.

A Surprise Honour

The compact Turkish eatery, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the fourth top restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent culinary publication. This honour has left the family totally shocked.

“I am utterly shocked,” states the family member, pointing to his parents’ dedication that led to their humble restaurant securing such a high ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

The Character of Simplicity

This compact space, which started as a basic cafe before its conversion into a popular food hotspot, has kept much of its original feel. It fits just more than 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking performance, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy space,” says the owner.

The Namesake Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it is all down to the cuisine, and this establishment more than succeeds. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a succulent quality.

The meat is then added into a sizeable pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. When the flavourful mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is rolled tightly inside.

It is usually eaten with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a powerful punch of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A prominent food critic described this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For dessert, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a treat. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, imparting it a more intense, nuttier and more balanced profile.

Rising Above the Titans

Notably, this unassuming spot has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the top of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant satisfied for below £25, equivalent experiences at luxury establishments can start at many times that figure.

A Philosophy of Heart

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I do not agree with that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is hospitality, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This view is echoed by the list’s curator, who stated that if he were in a position of power, he would “require to make every chef in London visit this restaurant as a finishing school, to show them the dangers of overcomplication, and to show what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

The Journey of Perseverance

In contrast to most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food did not work at fancy restaurants. “I am truly pleased of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum would be extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a life outside work but her friends would support her to support her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. All of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

A Achievement for the People

The restaurant’s recognition is bound to have meaning beyond its own doors. “I believe many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the wider importance of this gastronomic achievement.